Electric Heated Floor Installation Across Ottawa & Orléans
Heated floors are one of the most requested upgrades in Ottawa and Orléans homes — especially in bathrooms, where cold tile in the morning is an unwelcome fixture of the season. Orleans Flooring Co. installs electric radiant heat systems as part of full flooring installations across Ottawa, Orléans, Gloucester, Barrhaven, Kanata, and the surrounding area. Owner Joseph Leger installs every project personally. There's no crew, no handoffs, and no one skipping the resistance test because they're in a hurry.
Electric heated floors work well in Ottawa's climate. Unlike hydronic systems — which require a boiler, tubing, and a significant renovation — electric heat mats and cables are straightforward to install during a flooring replacement. The total installed cost is manageable, the operating cost for a bathroom is low (a typical 50 sq ft bathroom mat draws about 500 watts — similar to a small appliance), and the comfort upgrade is real: warm tile underfoot from October through April is a meaningful improvement to daily life.
We install heated floors under tile (the most common and most effective application), and also under compatible LVP and engineered hardwood where the manufacturer permits it. Every installation includes a resistance check before the mat is covered, and again after the floor is complete — so you know the mat is intact and working before the job is done.
Technical Details: Electric Radiant Heat Installation
Heat mat vs. loose cable: The two main formats for electric radiant heat are pre-spaced heat mats and loose heating cable. Heat mats consist of a resistive wire pre-attached to a fibreglass mesh at a fixed spacing (typically 3"). They're faster to install and well-suited for simple rectangular rooms. Loose cable allows custom spacing and can be routed around obstacles — toilets, vanities, islands — making it better for irregular spaces and allowing the installer to control watt-density. We assess the room and recommend the right format for your specific space.
Thermostat wiring: An electric floor heating system requires a dedicated thermostat — typically a programmable unit with a floor sensor probe. The thermostat is wired to the electrical panel (usually on a 15A or 20A circuit depending on the mat size). The floor sensor probe is embedded in the mortar bed between tiles so it reads actual floor temperature, not air temperature. We coordinate with your electrician for the circuit, or can recommend one.
Compatible flooring types: Tile is the most compatible flooring with electric radiant heat — it stores heat well, transfers it evenly, and is not affected by the heat cycles. LVP can be used over radiant heat if the manufacturer explicitly approves it and the floor temperature is controlled below the product's maximum (typically 27°C / 80°F). Engineered hardwood can work over low-wattage systems with proper acclimation and temperature control. Solid hardwood is generally not recommended over radiant heat. We confirm compatibility before specifying any system.
Tile over heat mat — critical installation notes: Installing tile over a heat mat requires care. The mat adds thickness to the assembly, which can create a height transition at doorways that needs a Schluter profile. The mat must sit in a continuous mortar bed without voids — any air pockets beneath the mat act as insulation and cause hot spots that can damage the cable over time. We use a self-leveling compound or thinset to encapsulate the mat fully before tile goes down. A decoupling membrane is used on wood-frame floors to isolate the tile assembly from subfloor movement.
Testing before and after: We test the heat mat with a digital ohmmeter before installation, recording the resistance reading. We test again immediately after the mat is embedded in mortar, and again after tile is complete. If the resistance changes, we know exactly when the damage occurred — and can locate and address it before the floor is in service. We provide you with the test readings.
What's Included
- On-site assessment and mat/cable format recommendation
- Substrate preparation and flatness correction
- Decoupling membrane on wood-frame floors
- Heat mat or loose cable layout and installation
- Resistance testing before mat is covered
- Self-leveling compound or thinset encapsulation of mat
- Tile or LVP installation over the heat assembly
- Floor sensor probe placement
- Thermostat installation (electrical connection by electrician)
- Post-installation resistance test
- Grout, sealing, and transitions (for tile installations)
Our Installation Process
Step 1 — Assessment: We assess the room — size, shape, obstacles, subfloor type, and existing electrical. We confirm flooring compatibility and recommend mat vs. loose cable. We calculate the required wattage and circuit load for your electrician.
Step 2 — Substrate prep: Subfloor is checked for flatness and structural integrity. On wood-frame floors, an uncoupling membrane is installed to manage differential movement and protect the heat assembly from cracking. On concrete, we address any cracks or contamination.
Step 3 — Heat mat layout: The mat or loose cable is rolled out or routed to cover the living floor area, avoiding under-fixture areas where possible (under vanities and toilets). The thermostat lead is run to the wall location. Resistance is checked and recorded.
Step 4 — Encapsulation: The heat mat is covered with a layer of self-leveling compound or thinset — completely encapsulating the cable and eliminating air voids. Resistance is tested again after this step to confirm no damage during the pour.
Step 5 — Flooring installation: Tile is installed over the cured encapsulation layer using polymer-modified thinset. The floor sensor probe is placed in a notch between tiles. After tile installation, resistance is checked a final time.
Step 6 — Thermostat and finishing: The thermostat is mounted and connected (by a licensed electrician). The system is powered on and tested before we leave.
Frequently Asked Questions
How much do heated floors cost to install in Ottawa?
For a typical bathroom floor in Ottawa (50–80 sq ft), the heat mat itself costs $150–$300 depending on the brand and wattage density. Installation adds to the overall flooring cost rather than being a separate line item — we incorporate the mat layout and encapsulation into the tile installation. A programmable thermostat is typically $80–$200. Electrical panel work (if a new circuit is needed) is additional and quoted by your electrician. All-in, adding electric radiant heat to a bathroom tile project typically adds $500–$900 over the base flooring cost.
What flooring works best over a heated floor — tile or LVP?
Tile is the best flooring material over electric radiant heat. Tile stores thermal energy, distributes heat evenly, and is completely unaffected by heat cycles. LVP can work over radiant heat with careful temperature management (keeping the floor below 27°C / 80°F), but some manufacturers void warranties if temperature control isn't documented. Engineered hardwood is marginal — possible with low-wattage systems and proper acclimation, but higher-risk. We recommend tile for any radiant heat installation where comfort and longevity are the priorities.
How warm do heated floors actually get?
Electric radiant floor systems are designed to bring the floor surface to a comfortable walking temperature — typically between 26°C and 32°C (79°F–90°F) at the floor surface. They're not space heaters; they warm the floor, which radiates gentle warmth upward. In a bathroom, they're typically used as a comfort supplement to the room's primary heat source. Most programmable thermostats let you set schedules so the floor is warm when you wake up and cool (off) the rest of the day.
How much does it cost to run a heated floor in Ottawa?
A typical bathroom heat mat (50 sq ft at 120V, 15W/sq ft) draws about 750 watts. At Ontario's mid-peak electricity rate of roughly $0.12–$0.18 per kWh, running the mat continuously costs about $0.09–$0.13 per hour. For a bathroom used in the mornings, you might run the mat 2 hours per day — roughly $0.18–$0.26 per day, or $5–$8 per month during the heating season. A programmable thermostat with a schedule makes this very manageable.
Can you retrofit a heated floor into an existing tile bathroom?
Yes, but it requires removing the existing tile and starting fresh. There's no way to install a heat mat under tile that is already in place. If you're replacing a bathroom floor anyway, that's the ideal time to add radiant heat — the incremental cost is low compared to doing it as a standalone project later. If you have an existing tile floor you want to keep, a compatible thin electric mat can sometimes be installed under floating LVP on top of the existing tile as an alternative.